KENT nitrate sponge
- Thread starter ridwan
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ini kata bung melev di websitenya ... kalo saya belum pernah pake ..
Kent Nitrate Sponge - A one pound container of these granules will treat a 50g aquarium, and it really works. I put half a pound in one canister filter, and half a pound in another one, and let it run for 48 hours. It brought nitrates way down. Once the time has elapsed, remove it from your system to avoid it releasing back into the water.
Do I recommend this as a chemical solution? If your test numbers are sky high - yes. However, you must remove what is creating them in the first place. Please read this article, and resolve those issues first. Once that is done, big water changes will usually solve the problem better than using a chemical solution.
link articlenya ..
Nitrates: They Can Be Beaten Down Into Submission.
Nitrates are a part of nature in the ocean, and correspondingly in our tanks. As waste breaks down in your aquarium, it cycles from ammonia to nitrite to nitrates. The first two are highly toxic to marine life, and we make it a point to make sure our tanks test zero for these. However, nitrates aren’t as bad, and sometimes are even a little beneficial.
Specifically, few organisms need nitrates. Both micro and macro algae love the stuff, while fish tolerate it. Invertebrates suffer if the levels are too high, but a little is required to keep clams happy. In our goal to match NSW as closely as possible, we strive to keep nitrates down to a minimum at 10 ppm or less.
First things first -- what is causing the nitrates in your tank? Bioballs, biowheels, filter pads, foam blocks & tubes, and under gravel filters all contribute to the production of nitrates. Overfeeding is another cause, and a lack of water changes will be another factor.
Nitrates are in the water column, not your substrate or rockwork. Frequent large water changes will quickly reduce the amounts of nitrates present in your system. I battled with nitrates for years, even when using Nitrate Sponge on a weekly basis. I’d change 5 gallons in my 29 gallon tank and see the nitrates drop from 80 to 60ppm, only to rise again. I’d cringe when I’d run a new test and see the fluid bright red before the timer was even set!
Once I removed the 3 year-old under gravel filter & my Penguin Biowheel filter filled with bioballs, I was finally on track. I did three 10 gallon water changes in one week, or 33% at a time. Nitrates were down to 20ppm. I became more meticulous with my water changes, changing 7 - 10 gallons each time every two weeks.
Later on that year, I added a sump & refugium to that tank. The saying “Dilution is the Solution to Pollution†proved to be absolutely true. The macro algae in the refugium as well as the small sandbed helped denitrify my tank, and nitrates are ranging from 0 - 2ppm with a water change only being done every other month.
In November 2002, I bought an existing 55 gallon tank filled with seven fish, 120 lbs of live rock and crushed coral substrate. The previous owners never tested their water, and the nitrates were 200ppm or more. Through a series of major water changes in those first two weeks, nitrates were lowered without stressing the fish. The substrate was replaced with a DSB (deep sand bed), and the canister filters with biowheels were removed as a sump was incorporated. Nitrates were down to 7ppm after three months, and only one fish was lost during that period (probably due to starvation… it never looked healthy).
If your tank is suffering from high nitrate levels, the success of your reef will depend on your being able to get this under control. Changing 100% of the water would be the ideal, but it may shock your corals, fish and invertebrates in the process. A more gradual way is recommended.
Example from my 55-gallon Reef : Make up 20 gallons of fresh saltwater in a trashcan in front of your tank. Drain 10 gallons of tank water into the 20 gallons of new water, and let that mix. Pump 10 gallons of that water back into your tank, and let the power heads mix that water up in your tank for a minute or so. Then repeat this three more times. Dispose of the now polluted 20 gallons of water. Make up another 20 gallons of fresh saltwater, and repeat this procedure. As long as your temperature and salinity match the tank, your inhabitants won’t be affected adversely, and with each rotation of water, the nitrates are being diluted and removed from your tank.
Simply pulling out all of the water in one massive water change puts stress on your entire tank. Doing small water changes consistently won’t bring nitrate levels down. At best, it will maintain them at their current levels. Using the example above, a tank that was at 80ppm would be around 30ppm after a couple of hours work and your population will be happy and unaffected. Once your nitrate levels drop, they are easily kept low with regular water changes, as well as the use of a DSB and macro algae.
Your tank will be healthier, your reef happier and the nitrate problem fixed!
Update - 5/10/09:
Since the writing of this article six years ago, other options have become available. Some people have opted to purchase a De-nitrification Reactor, such as the one made by Midwest Systems. These definitely work, but they are not cheap.
Another method that has proven effective is to dose the tank with a carbon source, such as vodka, sugar, or vinegar. Some use a combination of these three products, concocting a very precise dosing regiment. Please do your homework before putting anything new in your tank. I've been dosing my 280g reef tank with vodka since July 2008, and will be doing a write up soon on what that entailed and how it worked. In the meantime, here's the article that was my guide. Please read it very carefully:
http://www.melevsreef.com/chemicals.html
Kent Nitrate Sponge - A one pound container of these granules will treat a 50g aquarium, and it really works. I put half a pound in one canister filter, and half a pound in another one, and let it run for 48 hours. It brought nitrates way down. Once the time has elapsed, remove it from your system to avoid it releasing back into the water.
Do I recommend this as a chemical solution? If your test numbers are sky high - yes. However, you must remove what is creating them in the first place. Please read this article, and resolve those issues first. Once that is done, big water changes will usually solve the problem better than using a chemical solution.
link articlenya ..
Nitrates: They Can Be Beaten Down Into Submission.
Nitrates are a part of nature in the ocean, and correspondingly in our tanks. As waste breaks down in your aquarium, it cycles from ammonia to nitrite to nitrates. The first two are highly toxic to marine life, and we make it a point to make sure our tanks test zero for these. However, nitrates aren’t as bad, and sometimes are even a little beneficial.
Specifically, few organisms need nitrates. Both micro and macro algae love the stuff, while fish tolerate it. Invertebrates suffer if the levels are too high, but a little is required to keep clams happy. In our goal to match NSW as closely as possible, we strive to keep nitrates down to a minimum at 10 ppm or less.
First things first -- what is causing the nitrates in your tank? Bioballs, biowheels, filter pads, foam blocks & tubes, and under gravel filters all contribute to the production of nitrates. Overfeeding is another cause, and a lack of water changes will be another factor.
Nitrates are in the water column, not your substrate or rockwork. Frequent large water changes will quickly reduce the amounts of nitrates present in your system. I battled with nitrates for years, even when using Nitrate Sponge on a weekly basis. I’d change 5 gallons in my 29 gallon tank and see the nitrates drop from 80 to 60ppm, only to rise again. I’d cringe when I’d run a new test and see the fluid bright red before the timer was even set!
Once I removed the 3 year-old under gravel filter & my Penguin Biowheel filter filled with bioballs, I was finally on track. I did three 10 gallon water changes in one week, or 33% at a time. Nitrates were down to 20ppm. I became more meticulous with my water changes, changing 7 - 10 gallons each time every two weeks.
Later on that year, I added a sump & refugium to that tank. The saying “Dilution is the Solution to Pollution†proved to be absolutely true. The macro algae in the refugium as well as the small sandbed helped denitrify my tank, and nitrates are ranging from 0 - 2ppm with a water change only being done every other month.
In November 2002, I bought an existing 55 gallon tank filled with seven fish, 120 lbs of live rock and crushed coral substrate. The previous owners never tested their water, and the nitrates were 200ppm or more. Through a series of major water changes in those first two weeks, nitrates were lowered without stressing the fish. The substrate was replaced with a DSB (deep sand bed), and the canister filters with biowheels were removed as a sump was incorporated. Nitrates were down to 7ppm after three months, and only one fish was lost during that period (probably due to starvation… it never looked healthy).
If your tank is suffering from high nitrate levels, the success of your reef will depend on your being able to get this under control. Changing 100% of the water would be the ideal, but it may shock your corals, fish and invertebrates in the process. A more gradual way is recommended.
Example from my 55-gallon Reef : Make up 20 gallons of fresh saltwater in a trashcan in front of your tank. Drain 10 gallons of tank water into the 20 gallons of new water, and let that mix. Pump 10 gallons of that water back into your tank, and let the power heads mix that water up in your tank for a minute or so. Then repeat this three more times. Dispose of the now polluted 20 gallons of water. Make up another 20 gallons of fresh saltwater, and repeat this procedure. As long as your temperature and salinity match the tank, your inhabitants won’t be affected adversely, and with each rotation of water, the nitrates are being diluted and removed from your tank.
Simply pulling out all of the water in one massive water change puts stress on your entire tank. Doing small water changes consistently won’t bring nitrate levels down. At best, it will maintain them at their current levels. Using the example above, a tank that was at 80ppm would be around 30ppm after a couple of hours work and your population will be happy and unaffected. Once your nitrate levels drop, they are easily kept low with regular water changes, as well as the use of a DSB and macro algae.
Your tank will be healthier, your reef happier and the nitrate problem fixed!
Update - 5/10/09:
Since the writing of this article six years ago, other options have become available. Some people have opted to purchase a De-nitrification Reactor, such as the one made by Midwest Systems. These definitely work, but they are not cheap.
Another method that has proven effective is to dose the tank with a carbon source, such as vodka, sugar, or vinegar. Some use a combination of these three products, concocting a very precise dosing regiment. Please do your homework before putting anything new in your tank. I've been dosing my 280g reef tank with vodka since July 2008, and will be doing a write up soon on what that entailed and how it worked. In the meantime, here's the article that was my guide. Please read it very carefully:
http://www.melevsreef.com/chemicals.html
Ozone said:
intinya di tanknya melev produk ini bekerja dengan sangat baik, dengan dibantu refugium, dsb, ganti air rutin... :smt003
termasuk mengganti canister filter dengan sump dan membuang bioball, biowheel, dll :smt003
nitrat turun dari 200ppm jadi 7ppm dalam 3 bulan, tank 55 galon(200Lan)..
kalo gak salah ini pernah ada yg apply deh... dgn system sperti NITRATE REAKTOR cuma tanpa co2
jadi air yg di serkulasikan secara terus menerus di dalam tabung yg berisi kan media ini kemudian output dari tabung tetap di drip
jadi gak beda2 jauh lah seperti nitrate reaktor dan coil denitrator cuma yg ini media nya aja..
tapi hati2 ini media pengikat gak selamanya bida jadi bom waktu kalo udah overload....
keep save ya...
jadi air yg di serkulasikan secara terus menerus di dalam tabung yg berisi kan media ini kemudian output dari tabung tetap di drip
jadi gak beda2 jauh lah seperti nitrate reaktor dan coil denitrator cuma yg ini media nya aja..
tapi hati2 ini media pengikat gak selamanya bida jadi bom waktu kalo udah overload....
keep save ya...
ridwan said:
sebenar nya yg tau cuma test kit mas... tapi berhubung minim test kit dan metode irit lebih baik di ganti berkala aja.
misalkan tank nya sesak ada baik nya 2 bulan sekali ganti tapi yg ringan load nya ya bisa sampe 4 bulan baru ganti...
semua yg tau hanya pemilik tank aja... termasuk mas ridwan yg tau tank nya sendiri seberapa kotor unutk nitrate nya
Pr3miuM said:ridwan said:
sebenar nya yg tau cuma test kit mas... tapi berhubung minim test kit dan metode irit lebih baik di ganti berkala aja.
misalkan tank nya sesak ada baik nya 2 bulan sekali ganti tapi yg ringan load nya ya bisa sampe 4 bulan baru ganti...
semua yg tau hanya pemilik tank aja... termasuk mas ridwan yg tau tank nya sendiri seberapa kotor unutk nitrate nya
Thank you for the helpful answer..! :wink:
anyway sy akhir nya beli jg kent nitrate sponge nya hehe
.sy apply nya pake tabung air RO. jd kek fluidizer gt deh.. dengan aliran yg slow..(selang output nya sy kecil in)
well, lets see 1 or 2 mnths later.
mas ridwan kalo bisa air nya bersirkulasi terus2 an di dalem tabung....
jadi buat pump yg bisa sedot air sedikit. trus output dari tabung RO itu di kembalikan lagi ke input RO.... diatas RO kan ada mur kecil tuh....di cabut aja buat output nya...keluarnya di drip deh... bisa di coba 3drip/sec
jadi buat pump yg bisa sedot air sedikit. trus output dari tabung RO itu di kembalikan lagi ke input RO.... diatas RO kan ada mur kecil tuh....di cabut aja buat output nya...keluarnya di drip deh... bisa di coba 3drip/sec
Pr3miuM said:
binggung pak kata2 nya. mksdny air muter2 di dalem, trus kluar nya dari mur kecil itu..
cara outputnya dr tbng RO di kembalikan lagi ke input gmana caranya... ? pak premium pernah mengerjakan nya..?
secara skrg sy pake resun 550lph, cuma selang output nya sy bakar, jd lobang nya jauh lecih kecil. well, anyway sy punya ga nge drip.
soalnya si DIRECTION nya.: it is an excellent media for CD, or other slow flow device
ardhana said:FOTONYA DONG PAK PENASARAN
kalo saia pake rumpu chaeto aja pak,disump saia,campur sama aseman
di google aja "kent nitrate sponge"
